The girls arrive

Tues 5 September

I had a lazy start - I knew I should probably be out early and beat the crowds and the heat but I know I'm in for a few tough days baby-sitting. So even though I could have had a sleep-in, I still got up but I chilled around the apartment.

It was 10 a.m. before I got out and I walked up the Aventine hill just behind where I am staying and wandered around the church/monastery/college of Sant'Anselmo all'Aventino.

The adjoining piazza is also where you find the famous keyhole in the main door of the church of Priorato dei Cavalieri - belonging to the Knights of Malta - which you look through and can see a wonderful view of the Basilica of St Peter's at the end of an avenue framed by trees in a private garden. There are lots of terrible photos (mine included) so here is one from Atlas Obscura:

The Giardino Storico di Sant'Alessio was a little woe-begone although the views out over Rome are good - but probably better either earlier or later in the day!

And then around to Testaccio for water at the supermarket, wine from an enoteca and Kathryn has something she wants me to get from the farmacia. By midday it is very warm and I take a break in the piazza opposite where she lived once and there is the church of Santa Maria Liberatrice on the corner. I suspect I might be spending a bit of time around here with Niah in the next few days! (I note from my watch that the boys should be landing in Melbourne right now).

Finding the enoteca was like looking for a needle in a haystack. I had seen one earlier on the way to the supermarket - but no matter which way I 'threaded the needle' doing the streets grid-by-grid I could not find it although I certainly found lots of other interesting shops.

What I learnt this morning is: 1) I can get the big picture OK in terms of navigation but sometimes I miss the detail - this means: a) I get tired legs; b) sometimes I find other interesting things, like I found another enoteca (Palombi - another institution dating from 1917) and managed to engage in conversation about buying a Nebbiolo that the proprietor recommended and also that I should breathe it for an hour. Amazing! c) But possibly I should buy when I see the place first to save my feet!

2) I've forgotten the 2nd thing ...

I try Cafe Barberini a second time (today) for coffee. I had heard it has good coffee. Earlier today I had asked for a coffee con latte (with milk) and thought I had been given an espresso it was so tiny! I did enjoy my little BITE-SIZE (!) torta della nonna (getting into practice for being a nonna, although I tried saying this to the girl behind the counter this morning, but she didn't get the joke - must be my Italiano again!). This afternoon I thought I would try a cappuccino to get a bigger coffee but it wasn't quite hot enough - probably same amount of coffee, just a bigger cup and more milk?! The tartellina crema e frutti I ordered was yummy but the girl seemed curious that I only wanted one. I managed to convey that I had already had one this morning and that it had been very nice. She seemed happy with that. I think I give myself 10 points for better communication second time round. Only two euros for a coffee and tart (albeit BITE-SIZE)!!

For lunch (late!) I have just 'wolfed down' the piece of calzone I bought from Volpetti yesterday - after nearly burning it in the oven!!! It was absolutely delicious!!! I think I'll be back for more!! I could have enjoyed a glass of red with it, but will hang out for Kathryn whose plane lands about 4:30 p.m. this afternoon.

I must have needed food. I have just remembered the second thing. That is, I am amazed how the shops materialise in the streets; there is nothing to indicate that they are there (except for some obvious ones like pharmacies with the cross outside flashing green). Just about everything is hidden away (and of course shuttered at lunch-time and after closing at night); you almost have to walk on the other side of the street and then you notice them.

La mamma of Paolo (our AirBnB host) arrives with the wine glasses he asked her to buy (I had commented when I arrived yesterday that I was surprised that an Italian apartment did not have wine glasses!!).

A jet-lagged little girl arrives in Rome.

And then tries the local pizza!