The two vias (streets)

Thursday 7 September

Kathryn has two days in the office at HQ.

11 a.m. and Niah is asleep. We put a wash on this morning earlier and I managed to scrape in some breakfast - all one-handed, as nonnas do - and then we launched ourselves on the world since she didn't seem keen on settling.

So into the papoose and, with just 10 euros in one pocket and a phone and keys in the other, we 'did' via Alessandro Volta in every possible configuration. But straight down it from via Marmorata, one comes to the Testaccio Market which has been relocated. I remember going to the old covered one years ago - pretty junky, but authentic and full of people. The new one is gentrified with very few people. I suspect this is happening in many places and I wonder how successful the new ones are. No wonder the traders at the Vic Markets in Melbourne are 'up in arms' re plans to renovate.

Anyway, despite all this, it is an interesting neighbourhood (Garbatella), retaining its original 1920s character with buildings grouped (called 'lotto') around a common garden area. There is also the Macro Museum of Contemporary Art open here in the afternoons. Might check it out some time.

I had a stand-up-at-the-bar coffee in a bar (mainly because I had Niah in a papoose and she still wasn't asleep. In fact, she was jumping out of her papoose with interest in all her surroundings - so as a strategy for sleep, this wasn't working!

Anyway, after buying some home-made pasta at the market, we made our way back along via Alessandro Volta to home base; a transfer into the stroller she went and after some milk eventually she was asleep.

Unfortunately, it only lasted an hour, half of which I spent trying to figure out how to use the dryer - how could the operation of a dryer be difficult? I even read the instructions (unusual for me) and eventually it started - but don't ask me how - I pressed something right in the end!!

So there went my nonna rest time and of course she was awake too soon - and still tired.

We tried food and milk and water and playing and then I thought 'damn, I'm going to have to wrestle that monster stroller out the door and down the stairs' - with Niah connected to me like a limpet in the papoose.

Outside, a friendly Italian woman asked if I wanted some help and she spoke good English which she seemed happy to practise; and she accommodated my Italian. Turns out she lived in London as a young woman. Many European young women travelled abroad to work as au pairs and to broaden their language skills.

We chatted for quite a while and she told me she was born in Testaccio - and would die there. She also commented on the influx of immigranti and that the park opposite where I went with Niah yesterday was no longer safe.

It is a problem everywhere: the long-term inhabitants see changes to the place where they live and the dispossessed are marginalised by prejudice. The fact so many people are out of work, struggling to make do - both locals and foreigners; such a terrible problem let alone the cause of the mass exodus of people from their homelands. What is the solution?

So on we went, Niah and I to 'do' via Marmorata down to the river Tiber. Testaccio was one of Rome’s traditional working class neighbourhoods, although it is becoming more 'hipster'. In antiquity, much of the Tiber River trade took place here.

A left turn at the river Tiber took us along a peaceful footpath lined with enormous plane trees following the river around the perimeter of Testaccio. Some fascinating buildings.

As things turned out, when we headed away from the river back into Testaccio, we found ourselves back at the market where we had been this morning! So a circuit completed. Curiously, we are in via Beniamino Franklin. The neighbourhood we pass through to arrive into Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice is interesting.

Parking, Italian-style - an intersection. Seriously!

Still no sleeping child - although sleepy!

I am starting to eye off the bars for a Campari Spritz but it is only 1:30 p.m.! One bar might have rules about 5 p.m. for cocktails which may seem somewhat extreme, but even I have to draw a line somewhere!!

We stop for a very yummy gelato and Niah enjoys a little (piccolo) cone.

We head home and more pushing back and forth of the stroller results in an hour's sleep by which time Kathryn arrives home.

A short walk, bath-time and bed-time for Niah and then nonna prepares dinner with the home-made pasta from the market (ricotta and lemon ravioli - absolutely delicious) with oven-cooked tomatoes and eggplant - plus a glass of Nebbiolo. Yum.