Rain, rain go away

Sunday 10 September

It's 'raining cats and dogs': the first really super heavy rain this trip. We had a bit when riding in France but this is quite a deal heavier than that. And so dark!!! It's like the middle of the night. But one can't really complain - the weather has been wonderful in Rome so far - and the gardens look like they could do with a drink!

I'd seen yesterday that the next two days are predicted wet so am glad we got out and made the most of it.

It's a perfect day to do nothing. Talk to the MFs via WhatsApp. Caught up with Ali yesterday. I'm catching up on blogging, FBing and reading the paper. Terrible situation in the Caribbean with Hurricane Irma plus earthquake in Mexico.

The girls have returned to bed and when Niah wakes I take her for an hour and Kathryn catches up on a bit more shut-eye. Her bad cold and sore throat (brutto raffredorre and gola infiammata) are getting better.

We head out about 1:30 p.m. as there is a break in the weather - the sun even pokes through! We walk to Masto where I had coffee and cake yesterday and where the food tour group was also enjoying itself. There are only a few tables occupied thank goodness as the place is tiny; we squeeze in with Monster Stroller and have a Tuscan Sangiovese (or rather, I do mostly, as Kathryn is breast-feeding). We order a platter of cold meats, cheeses, etc and have as best an 'adult' meal as we can whilst keeping Niah's prying hands from dragging everything off the table. We miraculously manage to finish the platter without any disasters (and I'm sure the proprietor was relieved to see us leave without mishap although he was very nice throughout).

We walked more around the Testaccio market area. I thought the contemporary art at Macro might have been worthwhile but there was only one exhibitor (for 6€ per person, not really worthwhile and anyway it wasn't raining so better to make the most of the drier conditions!).

Kathryn took me round the back of the old abattoir complex which is Macro. Fascinating area! I probably would not have ventured so deeply into the embedded spaces, but she knew of a cafe in there somewhere because she had been here before looking to attend the Music Conservatorium that is here (along with numerous performing arts spaces). I was amazed it was open as there was hardly anyone around. I had the most beautiful cannolo I have ever had - mainly because it was peanut brittle rather than the tubes being made from regular dough - yum yum. I just loved this area. There had been a food festival but it seemed all washed out. There was wonderful graffiti art; really interesting walking through the industrial remnants of the abattoir - all befitting the working class area that is Testaccio.

From here we walked to where we had lunch yesterday so that in the event Niah fell asleep, Kathryn could work here on her laptop. We walked past the 'lotto' residential areas - apartments with their common central courtyard gardens.

Leaving Kathryn and sleeping baby, I walked on down to the river to explore further what I could see from the other side of the road yesterday when we walked to Piazza dei Fiori after lunch. This is in fact the riverside section of the Aventine hill area; I find the stairs leading up to the Aventino - Salita delle Pendici dell'Aventino). Essentially, I am 'underneath' the Giardino Storico and the 'keyhole' church Priorato dei Cavalieri.

I was blessed with a pleasant hour with no rain and a little sunshine squeaking through the clouds and great views out over the skyline of Rome to Capitoline and St Peter's. Absolute fun to wander high up the stairs onto balcony after balcony of wonderful views, trees, ancient buildings. I love putting together the pieces of the map - seeing something from one angle, then from another and joining the dots.

I arrive back at Il Gianfornaio and Niah is miraculously asleep. I order a Campari Spritz. Gotta keep those liver enzymes working!

We walk home via the supermarket in Testaccio - she buys up cheeses and coffee to take back to Panama and they even vacuum-pack the cheese for her!