Back along the Appian Way

Tuesday 12 Sept

The traffic is incredible today. Apparently there is a bus strike this morning - scioperi are nothing unusual for Italy; the Ministry of Transport even devotes a web page listing all strikes planned for the month!

The trip to the fattoria takes a bit over an hour today; the driver seems to take a longer route through Piazza di Porta Metronia. He finally gets to the Appia Antica (312 BC) - or Appian Way - which is lined with grassy fields, Roman structures and towering pine trees and from the bus, I see a splendid ancient house, Villa dei Quintili.

We arrive again at the farm of Alessia Antinori, the 26th generation of her winemaking family.

The sun shines brightly and it is going to be quite a warm day although there is a strong breeze.

It is a long morning - Niah sleeps barely an hour. Lunch arrives after 1 p.m. The farm has an organic café, L'Orto di Alberico. Niah has just gone to sleep - hooray! Lunch is buffet and outside today because of the nicer weather. I enjoy a white wine from the fattoria - it is good. Nonna getting her priorities right!

I have set myself the task of walking to the top of the nearby ridge on which (I presume) the large home is that of the winemaker. The dirt track becomes very rough but at the top, there is a smooth path and this takes me close to the villa. It is spacious here on the ridge with nice views down to the fattoria below.

I am back by 5 p.m. But the day's sessions continue until 6 p.m. It is a long day. I manage to buy a bottle of the white wine - it's like extracting teeth.

Finally we are on our way back into Rome. We pick up the clothes from the tailor, some bits and pieces from Volpetti to supplement the left-overs in the fridge (and Kathryn has already bought a bottle of Primitivo di Manduria which is very nice), then off to bath and bed for Niah, a load of washing, then dinner and bed for us Big People.