Time to go

Fri 15th Sept

Kathryn and Niah got away in taxi to Fiumicino airport at 4:15 a.m. - SEVEN bags (!!): stroller, car seat, large suitcase - with cheeses (!!), small suitcase with baby stuff for plane, nappy bag, handbag. OMG!!

I saw them off, washed kitchen floor, cleaned bathrooms, had breakfast - and went back to bed! Slept till after 8 a.m.!!

Took out garbage and went for last walk to take some photos with the camera (rather than mobile phone) in Trastevere, going via Aventine hill to have a last peek through the 'keyhole' church Priorato dei Cavalieri and then the beautiful views from the lovely Giardino degli Aranci. I quickly walked down the riverside path of Aventino (the one I had discovered on Sunday), across the bridge Ponte Palatino into Trastevere; walked around small laneways in whatever direction my curiosity led me; then back to the apartment past Piazza Bocca della Verità (where I went with Sophie when I visited 2 years ago) and Circo Massimo, turning up along via di Valle Murcia in order to short-cut the walk.

Lovely day but I had to hurry back as I had a long walk to the station at Ostiense then half-hour trip to the airport. It is not an easy airport - a lot of walking.

The girls have already transferred through Amsterdam.

Had my last Italian coffee at the airport - a macchiato latte ??? It was a glass of warm milk and froth with a dash of coffee ??? I think I should stick to cappucino!

Long, long lines for processing through passport control then the gate was miles away with lots of walking, queuing and finally even a shuttle train - you wouldn't want to be in a hurry!

A reasonable flight to Bangkok - excellent service by Thai Airlines. Long, long walk from arrivals at Bangkok airport to reach the transfer gates.

Last leg to go. Finished watching The Zookeeper's Wife which I had started on the earlier flight. Excellent film set in Warsaw in WWII.

Last day

Thursday 14 Sept

For old times' sake, and for a change of scenery, I took Niah to Trastevere. Down via Marmorata (I'd like to know how many times I have been down this street!!) and along the riverside path of Porto di Ripa Grande with lovely views to the Ponte Palatino.

A quick cappuccino in Piazza dei Ponziani and then a lovely stroll through Trastevere: quiet, with few people around at this time, and cooler part of the day too. I had forgotten how pretty this charming, medieval neighbourhood is: shops and cafes, cobblestoned streets lined with crumbling buildings with faded paintwork.

We stopped to marvel at the emptiness of Piazza di Santa Cecilia and paused a while in front of the fountain in the garden of the Basilica di Santa Cecilia which was built on top of the saint's house; in the year 230 she supposedly survived decapitation for three days and when her tomb was opened in 1599 her body was incorrupt.

Some more wandering - Niah was awake having had only a micro-sleep of half an hour leading up to my coffee stop, so we needed to start heading home.

Back over Ponte Fabricio and along the river the same way we'd come. I had considered going back via Circo Massimo for something different to do but figured on the riverside walk having fewer people and therefore easier to navigate with the stroller. It had been a lovely morning (but it was only 11 a.m.!!) and Niah was due for a feed; she got cracky so I had to papoose her and push the stroller.

Parking - how and wherever you can!!

These guys do a good job: immigranti I presume; they set themselves a section of street and sweep up the rubbish. They have a box at the start and end of their section with a little container to collect donations. I don't mind giving them some money.

Back at the apartment, Niah and I played, she drank lots of milk, etc etc and she was very tired. She went off to sleep in the papoose and I transferred her to the stroller so I could have a quick shower and then she woke! She was very cranky but I managed to get her to sleep again in the papoose; I didn't dare risk transferring her again so I was 'trapped' on the lounge with her 'connected' to me like a baby koala to its mother but I managed to get my airline check-in done (!); lunch would have to wait - she had a very deep sleep (waking a few times but dropping off again even when Regis rang to say hello to her; I had to give him the shoosh-shoosh).

Kathryn arrives late afternoon with Tania and Katuschia but thankfully they work for only a short time and then it is time to pack and get Niah settled and have dinner with our home-made pasta from the market. I have to say, the Ciambellone (the ring-cake) was not really to our liking. Finish packing.

Alarm set for 3:45 a.m. - argh! Kathryn has a 6 a.m. flight.

Two days to go

Wednesday 13 Sept

A 'rocky' start with Kathryn having had a disturbed night; Niah seemed to wake happy enough but became cranky pretty soon after (when Kathryn left for work). I thought: 'It's going to be one of those days!'.

After a fair bit of mucking around with food, milk and toys, we set off to the Testaccio Market to get some cake from Cups - this time Ciambellone (we had the peach and chocolate torta last night that I had bought from here the other day - it was delicious!); plus ravioli al cacio e pepe (Pecorino Romano cheese and pepper) from Le Mani in Pasta. When I told the girls at dinner later on, they all drooled.

Ciambellone is a classic Italian cake - it is a ring cake (strict translation is 'big doughnut'!).

This will be for our dinner tomorrow night (our last night) which will be PACKING night (ugh!). Tonight we go out with the girls. They will no doubt be keen to hear from Kathryn how the Team Leaders' meeting at HQ goes today re the anticipated restructure just announced by the new boss.

More walking around the market and finally Niah fell asleep and I got a well-deserved coffee and crostate; basically, a crostata is a fruit or jam tart. Feeling stuffed already. Looking forward to a bit of a break here at the cafe - but boy, the smoking here drives you crazy.

A woman at another table is having a Campari Spritz!! And it's only 11 a.m.!! I think I might be done with Campari Spritzes for now. Depends on how the day goes I guess...

The market -

Niah sleeps an hour - it never seems enough !! Why does an hour asleep always seem less than hour awake??!!

We call in to the supermarket for a few items and have to enter via the checkout to fit in with Monster Stroller. Juggling groceries, stroller, baby, wallet - in the tiniest of spaces - is enough to have you drop your bundle!

Stagger up to our flat - leave some stuff at foot of stairs whilst lugging up baby in papoose plus whatever can be carried, then unlocking the door - then back down with baby in papoose to get the rest, dragging Monster Stroller into tiny lift! Phew!

Niah guzzles down a bottle of milk, we play, put a load of washing on - all one-handed of course - and about 3 p.m. get her to sleep: INSIDE for a change, thus I am resting!

Kathryn arrives and I have to continue nonna duties till 7 p.m. as she is 'work-shopping' stuff with Katuschia. Then we are going out to dinner - all of us with Tania and Fiona also. This last stint nearly does me in but we make it - including nonna doing bath duties on her own!

We are booked into Da Felice's. And a booking IS required! We have an early slot at 7 p.m. and when we emerge later, it is like the Cannes Film Festival outside - throngs of people!! The food is simply amazing. It is renown for real Roman cooking. Apparently, Felice, the grumpy old owner, used to put 'reserved' signs on all the tables so he could turn away anyone he didn't like the look of. Now run by his son Franco, this corner trattoria has had a makeover. Very chic. I had the most amazing carciofo (artichokes) alla romana (a classic Roman dish) - the BEST I have ever had; then saltimbocca alla romana (veal with sage and ham - amazing!!); finished with torta ricotta e pere (ricotta tart and pear) - delicious. We were once more in the capable hands of Tania with the wines - Montefalco Rosso Arnaldo-Caprai 2015 (from Umbria; it is a blend of sangiovese and sagrantino, a grape indigenous to the area) followed by a lovely digestivo of Montenegro, a traditional amaro distilled in Bologna - lovely 'on the rocks'!

It more than made up for the stint I did outside the restaurant, glass of red in hand, rocking Niah to sleep in the papoose between main course and dessert. Success! Go nonna!!

Back along the Appian Way

Tuesday 12 Sept

The traffic is incredible today. Apparently there is a bus strike this morning - scioperi are nothing unusual for Italy; the Ministry of Transport even devotes a web page listing all strikes planned for the month!

The trip to the fattoria takes a bit over an hour today; the driver seems to take a longer route through Piazza di Porta Metronia. He finally gets to the Appia Antica (312 BC) - or Appian Way - which is lined with grassy fields, Roman structures and towering pine trees and from the bus, I see a splendid ancient house, Villa dei Quintili.

We arrive again at the farm of Alessia Antinori, the 26th generation of her winemaking family.

The sun shines brightly and it is going to be quite a warm day although there is a strong breeze.

It is a long morning - Niah sleeps barely an hour. Lunch arrives after 1 p.m. The farm has an organic café, L'Orto di Alberico. Niah has just gone to sleep - hooray! Lunch is buffet and outside today because of the nicer weather. I enjoy a white wine from the fattoria - it is good. Nonna getting her priorities right!

I have set myself the task of walking to the top of the nearby ridge on which (I presume) the large home is that of the winemaker. The dirt track becomes very rough but at the top, there is a smooth path and this takes me close to the villa. It is spacious here on the ridge with nice views down to the fattoria below.

I am back by 5 p.m. But the day's sessions continue until 6 p.m. It is a long day. I manage to buy a bottle of the white wine - it's like extracting teeth.

Finally we are on our way back into Rome. We pick up the clothes from the tailor, some bits and pieces from Volpetti to supplement the left-overs in the fridge (and Kathryn has already bought a bottle of Primitivo di Manduria which is very nice), then off to bath and bed for Niah, a load of washing, then dinner and bed for us Big People.

Fattoria di Fiorano

Monday 11 Sept

We are at a winery, Fiorano - for 2 days; that is, we are bussed in and out of Rome for both days about an hour's drive. A 'fattoria' is a farm.
https://mobile.nytimes.com/2013/10/23/dining/fiorano-wine-estate-in-italy-making-a-comeback.html

Alessia Antinori is the granddaughter of an historic wine-making family and she has restored the winery after it was abandoned some years ago.

Niah has fallen asleep in the stroller after a play on the floor and a walk through an olive grove. It is raining slightly off and on and the winery owners have graciously put me in a little lounge area while the Retreat for Kathryn and staff takes place in another building - a bit under 20 people, along with her newly-appointed boss.

The house is set in pretty gardens and I am happily clicking away with the camera in between either papoosing or strollering Niah. The forecast is better for tomorrow.

The staff at the winery have been lovely and the boss just went to the door of the kitchen and gave the staff there a shoosh-shoosh and made baby-sleeping signs. So I am surrounded by the smells from the kitchen on one side and the wine in the barrels on the other.

There has been some minor flooding in areas and on the bus they were saying there had been delays of 3 hours at the airport.

SmartTraveller had sent me an email yesterday to warn of adverse weather and potential minor flooding - I am registered as being in Italy so I get these email alerts - good service from the Australian government!

We have a super enormous lunch at the trattoria here plus some of the red wine, Fioranello.

Niah takes a while to settle and we wander around the vineyard before another rain shower sends us scurrying back inside. She finally settles in the papoose and I settle too - into one of the lounges and have a bit of a nonna nap!

When we arrive back into Rome, we have a light meal out - with Katuschia from work; the girls yarn about the day and de-brief. Everyone is pretty brain-drained! Early night I hope tonight!

Rain, rain go away

Sunday 10 September

It's 'raining cats and dogs': the first really super heavy rain this trip. We had a bit when riding in France but this is quite a deal heavier than that. And so dark!!! It's like the middle of the night. But one can't really complain - the weather has been wonderful in Rome so far - and the gardens look like they could do with a drink!

I'd seen yesterday that the next two days are predicted wet so am glad we got out and made the most of it.

It's a perfect day to do nothing. Talk to the MFs via WhatsApp. Caught up with Ali yesterday. I'm catching up on blogging, FBing and reading the paper. Terrible situation in the Caribbean with Hurricane Irma plus earthquake in Mexico.

The girls have returned to bed and when Niah wakes I take her for an hour and Kathryn catches up on a bit more shut-eye. Her bad cold and sore throat (brutto raffredorre and gola infiammata) are getting better.

We head out about 1:30 p.m. as there is a break in the weather - the sun even pokes through! We walk to Masto where I had coffee and cake yesterday and where the food tour group was also enjoying itself. There are only a few tables occupied thank goodness as the place is tiny; we squeeze in with Monster Stroller and have a Tuscan Sangiovese (or rather, I do mostly, as Kathryn is breast-feeding). We order a platter of cold meats, cheeses, etc and have as best an 'adult' meal as we can whilst keeping Niah's prying hands from dragging everything off the table. We miraculously manage to finish the platter without any disasters (and I'm sure the proprietor was relieved to see us leave without mishap although he was very nice throughout).

We walked more around the Testaccio market area. I thought the contemporary art at Macro might have been worthwhile but there was only one exhibitor (for 6€ per person, not really worthwhile and anyway it wasn't raining so better to make the most of the drier conditions!).

Kathryn took me round the back of the old abattoir complex which is Macro. Fascinating area! I probably would not have ventured so deeply into the embedded spaces, but she knew of a cafe in there somewhere because she had been here before looking to attend the Music Conservatorium that is here (along with numerous performing arts spaces). I was amazed it was open as there was hardly anyone around. I had the most beautiful cannolo I have ever had - mainly because it was peanut brittle rather than the tubes being made from regular dough - yum yum. I just loved this area. There had been a food festival but it seemed all washed out. There was wonderful graffiti art; really interesting walking through the industrial remnants of the abattoir - all befitting the working class area that is Testaccio.

From here we walked to where we had lunch yesterday so that in the event Niah fell asleep, Kathryn could work here on her laptop. We walked past the 'lotto' residential areas - apartments with their common central courtyard gardens.

Leaving Kathryn and sleeping baby, I walked on down to the river to explore further what I could see from the other side of the road yesterday when we walked to Piazza dei Fiori after lunch. This is in fact the riverside section of the Aventine hill area; I find the stairs leading up to the Aventino - Salita delle Pendici dell'Aventino). Essentially, I am 'underneath' the Giardino Storico and the 'keyhole' church Priorato dei Cavalieri.

I was blessed with a pleasant hour with no rain and a little sunshine squeaking through the clouds and great views out over the skyline of Rome to Capitoline and St Peter's. Absolute fun to wander high up the stairs onto balcony after balcony of wonderful views, trees, ancient buildings. I love putting together the pieces of the map - seeing something from one angle, then from another and joining the dots.

I arrive back at Il Gianfornaio and Niah is miraculously asleep. I order a Campari Spritz. Gotta keep those liver enzymes working!

We walk home via the supermarket in Testaccio - she buys up cheeses and coffee to take back to Panama and they even vacuum-pack the cheese for her!

Market Day

Saturday 9 Sept

Mid-morning, Kathryn and Niah return to bed for some catch-up sleep so, after a few domestic chores, even though I could also have elected to just rest, I head out for the Testaccio Market which today is buzzing. But I get side-tracked by an interesting-looking tiny restaurant (Masto) and end up going in and asking for a coffee and cake. Turns out there is a group participating in a local food tour trying wine, cheese, olive oil. So I figure I must be in the right place! Very good coffee and cake!

I am happy to see that my pasta stall Le Mani in Pasta is in fact the one I have being reading about in reviews since I was there the other day; I compliment them on the ravioli with ricotta and lemon I bought then; and today I buy some more for dinner some time this weekend - but with ricotta and tartufo this time. Chef Cristina Bowerman of upscale restaurant Romeo has set up shop here too with Cups, which offers gourmet, take-away dishes. I buy some nice-looking peach torta from this stall.

Outside, children play in the Giardino Pertico - overlooked by a building with this painted on it:

Before getting water from the supermarket, I get my chance to go inside the Santa Maria Liberatrice church. I figured that I had walked past it so many times both this trip and at least two others, that it warranted a look - so I had put it on my to-do list overnight. This is the only parish church in the district and is run by the Salesians. The pope at the time, Pope Leo XIII, supported a scheme to build a church big enough for the entire new working-class neighbourhood of Testaccio in order to evangelise the industrialized proletariat.

I arrived back and the girls were up, having rested somewhat.

We set off for Testaccio and Kathryn dropped some clothing off for alterations at a tailor she has used there in the past. Very reasonable - 25 Euros to take in a jacket and a new zipper in a dress. The trailor remembers her from when she lived here several years ago.

That done, we looked in some of the shops - really, every day there seems to be a shop I haven't seen before!

We grab some lunch at a place that has wi-fi as Kathryn has a pre-arranged Skype time booked to talk to Sophie and Regis in Panama. The situation regarding Hurricane Irma which is bearing down on Florida is dire. Regis' office in Panama is involved in co-ordination of services. She may have to leave Rome earlier than planned ...

We set off to the Tiber river, walking along Lungotevere Aventino until we turn towards Capitoline.

We find an archaeological site we haven't seen before: Il Portico di Ottavia (246 B.C.). It is fascinating. It leads to the Jewish ghetto and in the Middle Ages it was once a Fish Market (being close to the Tiber). Next along is the ancient open-air Theatre of Marcellus. This area is knee-deep in Roman ruins.

From here, it is not far to the Campo dei Fiori. This is a very touristy part of Rome with heaps of shops. There is a daily market in the piazza but they were closing up by the time we got there, it now being late afternoon. We wandered around to the tiny and less-touristy Piazza della Quercia where we'd enjoyed a beer together on the last trip and had taken lovely photos of Sophie playing there; we were heart-broken to find the oak-tree (quercia) dead! So forlorn! We moved on quickly.

We wandered around and Kathryn bought stuff, relishing the choice that she does not get in Panama. We found a quiet spot in the tiny vicolo dei Catarini for a break in a tiny courtyard outside a galleria (Loran O'Neill Roma) - on a rather lovely seat.

It was a long walk home and it is time to get Niah sorted for the night. We manage to catch the tailor who was in the process of closing; she needs the hems taken up on some trousers she bought this afternoon. I am to collect all this on Wednesday.

Three micro sleeps

Friday 8 Sept

Niah slept off and on last night so another ordinary night for Kathryn. Somehow I think my babysitting duties will continue this weekend.

Niah is tired by the time Kathryn goes to work. We do some singing - so my mobile phone now has nursery rhymes! I have never seen so many versions of Baa Baa Black Sheep. UTube is amazing! Beautiful graphics. American accents tho!!

Then I take her to the park across the road. It is safe. And actually in the early morning light, it actually looks quite nice, albeit very neglected.

There is some sort of ceremony about to start and there is a small crowd of military types in about 4 different types of uniform and a huge wreath, looking almost Xmas-like in its decorations. The lads are decked out with rifles and some have brass instruments; they have a small rehearsal while we are there. One important-looking guy arrives and issues orders to the city workers to move all the metal fencing to another position, setting off much scurrying. He is like an adonis in his uniform and athletic, powerful-looking and TALL! I have never seen such a tall Italian.

Fortunately Niah is falling asleep and so I manage to get a coffee and a sit-down at the cafe at the end of the park that doesn't do cocktails till 5. I wonder what they'd say if I asked for one at 9:30 in the morning!

A young woman with her boyfriend on a motor bike turns up: tatts, dress split to the navel - all in black of course - and, whilst eating a croissant, is bothered by a wasp and puts on a first-class dramatic performance worthy of an Oscar.

I have been anxious about a couple of characters hanging around in the street outside our apartment and decide I perhaps shouldn't risk it, so I return - sadly, because I'm comfortable and Niah is asleep and of course, in moving, she now wakes - and of course the apartment is intact (but I had left my passport and wallet there!).

It is barely 10 a.m.!!!

So we make do with milk and play for another hour and a half. She is making all the fussy gestures of tiredness so we head out again - with monster stroller. I don't want her over-tired or I will really be in trouble.

I don't have a plan and of course the afternoons are quite warm - high 20s. On a whim I decide on via Caio Cestia near Piramide and onto the Cimitero Acattolico (Non-Catholic Cemetery) which I visited also with Sophie when I was last here babysitting.

Piramide was built as a tomb for Gaio Cestio Epulone and dates from 12 BC.

The Protestant Cemetery (non-Catholic indeed!!) is a lovely place - molto tranquillo - and Niah falls asleep as we walk the aisles through the beautifully-kept gardens.

Many thanks to Bill for letting me know about this originally. It really is an oasis. So I sit here on a park bench, Niah asleep, not far from Keats' grave and right in front of the Piramide.

Doesn't last long enough - again. We walk back through the cemetery, past the tombs of Shelley and Brenda Lee, in the hope we might fall asleep again but, no. We walk to the park opposite our apartment and the wreath is on the ground having expended its duties at the morning ceremony.

We talk to some birds. Then we head - anywhere really at this stage! - and end up at the lovely gelato place in Testaccio (I have found out the name: Angel's House); Niah loves her piccolo strawberry gelato, making a terrific mess in the stroller in the process. And uses her water cup all on her own!

And I've just realised I've been walking around all day with my shirt on inside out!

Back into papoose, along to the other end of our park to check out the statue of the dude on the horse - ahh, no wonder the small piazza here is called Piazza Albania! It is to commemorate the annexation of Albania to the Kingdom of Italy in 1939 and the monument is of George Kastrioti Skanderbeg, the 15th-century national hero of Albania. Never heard of him.

We continued our hot walk along Viale Aventino trying to keep to the shade of trees, and around the corner to the Roman Forum. I was heading for the quiet of the rose garden, Roseto Comunale, but alas it is closed - only open May and June!?? But the roses are blooming NOW!!

It is hot and I'm starting to get frustrated and she comes out of the stroller and into the papoose again. Finally she falls asleep! Hooray!

I head to Barberini for a Campari Spritz (which fortunately comes with two pizzette - ideal for lunch). It is 3:45 p.m. afterall! I follow this with a coffee - ordered the way you said, Bill! The guy behind the counter was most impressed! It was still tiny! A tartellina also.

I call into Volpetti for something for dinner tonight. Kathryn is going out with her staff and I am invited but I'll have to see. The booking is for 8:30 p.m. They have run out of calzone at Volpetti!! So I choose some quiche-like thing plus crostata lampone. (Lampone? This is raspberry apparently).

Niah is awake again - and we take a punt on the Testaccio Piazza and there are kids around being later in the afternoon so we spend quite a diverting hour here. She is the centre of much attention and is quite a social butterfly, rising to the occasion despite her tiredness.

The little container of hand cleaner Kathryn had in the nappy bag is in fact empty (and Niah has filthy hands from crawling in the piazza and when she is tired, the fingers go straight into the mouth) so we need to clean those hands - fast! I go through the supermarket performance again - the same nice man from the other day gets the hand sanitiser for me and I enter via the exit to pay, bypassing the long long queue at the checkout - what special treatment!!

Home for mother's milk (Kathryn has arrived home from work), bath-time and off to early bed for Niah.

I plan to stay in but just as Kathryn leaves for dinner, Niah wakes! And Kathryn's friends have been texting her and insisting I join them. So we drag Niah out and make haste to the restaurant which is down near the Testaccio market. I have met them before: Katuschia, Fiona and Tania. And Katusha's boyfriend Alessandro flies in from Geneva for the weekend and joins us later. They are all interesting people. The food is nice. Tania can always be trusted to choose a good wine. And it's well after midnight when we get in.

This is my dessert: sfogliatina di mele con gelato alla cannella (roughly translated as 'warm apple-filled puff pastry with cinnamon icecream').